We’ve touted the abundance of great food and inspiring food producers here on the North Olympic Peninsula, but what about food’s favorite companion?

 

What about the wine? Our local winemakers work hard to achieve their personal visions, offering them to us one bottle at a time, and it’s high time we sang their praises as significant contributors to the local food economy. Hop in and allow us to be your designated writers as we take a tour of the peninsula’s liquid landscape, beginning right here in Sequim.

Wind Rose goes Italian
Across from City Hall on Cedar Street, behind the consignment store, is the tasting room of Wind Rose Cellars where we taste David Volmut’s wines made from Italian grapes in the Italian style, highlighting the flavor of the grape rather than the oak barrels in which the wine is aged. David’s flagship Bravo Rosso red table wine is versatile and equally enjoyable by itself or together with almost any meal. His newest releases include a barbera and a nebiollo, less common Italian varietals of which we hope to see more.

Olympic’s ‘Galopine’ shines
Traveling west on U.S. Highway 101 we arrive at Olympic Cellars, located in the large, iconic barn between Sequim and Port Angeles. Well-known for its award-winning “Working Girl” series, this multifaceted winery also produces such remarkable and creative wines as La Galopine, a luscious blend of roussanne and viognier. Bright and smooth without too much oak, La Galopine pairs well with grilled chicken and quiche.

Black Diamond rarities
As we arrive in Port Angeles, we head up Black Diamond Road to the aptly named Black Diamond Winery where they feature uncommon fruit wines, incorporating fruit grown on their own 20 acres. The Shiro plum wine features a dry finish, enhancing the fruit while their rhubarb wine has an off-dry finish and is a perfect accompaniment to turkey.

Harbinger’s creative side
Back on Highway 101 and west of Port Angeles we find Harbinger Winery situated in what looks to be a small airplane hanger, just off the highway. Stepping inside for a taste, we become immersed in the talent and imagination of winemaker Sara Gagnon. She produces exceptional varietals while also crafting seasonal fruit wines from local raspberries and blackberries that translate the essence of the fruit beautifully. Before we leave we are tempted by Harbinger’s red grape blends, each one a masterpiece with more complex flavor than can be developed in most single varietals.

Camaraderie’s colors
Driving east on Highway 101, we turn up Benson Road and head to Camaraderie Cellars. Don Corson’s wines are what you would expect from a winemaker with three decades of experience — rich and layered. The merlot is excellent, a full palate of flavors and the right touch of oak. The “Grâce,” a blend of five red grapes, is fruit-forward and made for sharing with friends over good conversation, a philosophy incorporated into each wine Camaraderie produces.

Excellence at Eaglemount
Heading back east, we travel toward Port Townsend, turn onto Eaglemount Road and pay a visit to Eaglemount Winery. At their wine studio we experience varietals and blends beautifully crafted by Trudy and Jim Davis. The German-style riesling is light and dry, while the syrah is bold and juicy. Their “Raptor” is a Bordeaux-style tour de force; a blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc grapes providing rich and complex flavors which leave us wanting more.

Sorensen scores
Our next stop is Sorensen Cellars in Port Townsend where they offer several premium varietals under the “Sorensen” label and a fun blend of sangiovese, malbec and cabernet sauvignon under their “Townsend Bay” label. Affordable and light, this blend, “Point Wilson Red,” is the perfect table wine for the everyday table.

‘Fireweed’ at Fairwinds
Our final destination in Port Townsend is Fairwinds Winery where Michael and Judy Cavett produce several unusual varietals and blends. Their “Fireweed Mead” made from fermented “fireweed” honey, is a slightly sweet, yet crisp white and their “Port of Call” port is perfect as a stand-alone dessert or accompanying a fine Dominican cigar; either way, it’s a fitting finale to our tour of the peninsula’s finest wineries.

Open house
We hope you’ve enjoyed the tour and encourage you to visit these wineries in person and taste for yourself! Be sure to mark your calendars for the Olympic Peninsula Wineries Holiday Open House Event this weekend (Dec. 10-11) from noon-5 p.m., when all participating wineries will be decked out in their holiday finest, a perfect opportunity to celebrate the season with friends and family.

Our best to you this holiday season — eat well, drink well and be well!

Mark Ozias and Lisa Boulware are owners of The Red Rooster Grocery. Reach them at columnists@sequimgazette.com.