Leif Nesheim
Squak Mountain is 'sister' worth a visit
Published on Wed, Dec 2, 2009 by Leif NesheimRead More Nesheim
Even Washington's urban areas have gorgeous mountain hikes nearby. Nestled in the Issaquah Alps southeast of Seattle is Squak Mountain, the "shy sister" of the better-known Tiger and Cougar mountain recreation areas.
Why go? It's pretty, it's a good year-round hike, I hadn't been there yet and it doesn't take much longer to drive to than most Hood Canal or West End hikes that I usually think of trekking. Plus, it boasts a stunning view of Mount Rainier (which I, of course, was unable to find ... I know where it is now after consulting a trail guide) and views of Mount Baker (which I also didn't find nor later learned where they might be). I did find the cool fireplace and communication towers - technology rearing its ugly head in the midst of nature.
Squak Mountain State Park was created in 1972 when the Bullitt family donated 590 acres to remain in their natural state. The park has been expanded to 1,570 acres, plus another 1,000 acres or so of county property - all of which link to the Tiger and Cougar mountain natural areas.
My wife and I parked at the developed trailhead on May Valley Road. It's the best place to begin for those who haven't hiked the park before as it has maps at the kiosk. Rather than checking out the one-third-mile Thomas Loop Trail - which has a story for kids on a series of signs along the route in which an animal protagonist learns about nature - we headed straight up the Bullitt Gorge Trail toward the summit.
It rises through second-growth forest, gold-garbed maples blazing with fall foliage interspersed between the firs. Ferns rise between their fallen leaves. Watch your step, the trail is popular with horseback riders.
The creek soon becomes audible as it cascades through a shallow gully on the left. Stick to the main trail, the route is obvious but it isn't clear where all the other trails go - hence the need for the map for Squak Mountain newbies.
There is a junction where the hikers' trail diverges from the wider horse trail. I recall a sign, but didn't make note of it in my notes, so maybe there isn't one. There is, however, a large gate to bar equestrians.
The trail to this point has been a steady but not terribly steep rise. Now, the trail climbs steeply. This is where you might hear "are-we-there-yets" (not that I'm saying I heard any such thing on my hike, but if you were to hear them, this is where they'd appear). I was pleasantly surprised to see some holly along the route. Christmassy.
While looking at the glossy green and pointy leaves of the holly, I noted the golden tones of the maples and alders lining the curved walls of the gully's terminus. It was quite pretty.
The trail eventually levels out and comes to a T-junction. If you want to see the view of Mount Rainier, turn left onto the Perimeter Loop and keep your eyes peeled for a faint path leading downhill to the left 100 yards to a clearing. Mandy and I instead headed to the right on the Valley Connector Trail toward the Bullitt fireplace. Nice forest, no views.
We followed the signs to the fireplace and Central Peak along a broad former logging road that has been overgrown to little more than a wide trail. Several other trails branch off this but we kept to the main route.
The fireplace is the only remnant of the Bullitt family's summer home. It is huge and made of stone. I think you could fit Hansel and Gretel inside. The fireplace is a popular picnic destination; we ate at a picnic table placed on the home's concrete foundation and had just left when the next picnickers arrived for their luncheon. Drizzle dampened the air and even if there had been a view - there isn't - it would have been socked in by the overcast sky.
Continuing east on the Bullitt Fireplace Trail to an intersection, follow the Central Peak Trail uphill to a steel gate. Behind the locked gate is a vast array of towers for microwaves, cell phones and other communication devices. There's a pretty good view of downtown Seattle to the northwest.
The sudden appearance of so much technology in the middle of wilderness is incongruous. I found it fascinating, like a giant spaceship had landed atop the mountain; Mandy thought it was just ugly. There is a gravel access road leading from the tower that makes for the beginning of the return loop.
After a short distance, the first of several trails leads off to the left for more nature-like walks. You can't make the complete loop because the bottom half of the Equestrian Loop Trail (about halfway down the mountain) is closed due to damage. The best you could do is hike down the Phil's Creek Trail to the point it rejoins the road.
We chose the road. Although shorter by maybe half a mile, it is steep. Really, it's steep. Did I mention it's steep? The 2.5-mile road drops some 1,600 feet to the trailhead. That's pretty steep for a road.
We met an equestrian and several other hikers headed uphill. I thought riding a horse on the way down would have been nice. We also noted remnants of partially dismantled green power boxes alongside the road. We thought it would have been nice if they hadn't been there.
They are just some of the leftovers from earlier land users that are found throughout the park. From old coal-mining rail trails to overgrown logging roads and stumps from long-since-felled old-growth trees to the Bullitt fireplace, there's a sense of civilization's proximity. But, somehow, it still
is heartening that the wilderness reclaims its own after such a short time despite being surrounded by urban development.
Squak Mountain - May Valley Trail loop
How long: About 5.2 miles
How hard: Moderate
How to get there:
Go to Tacoma via U.S. Highway 101 and state Highways 104, 3 and 16. Turn north on I-5 to Highway 18, exit 142A toward Auburn. Take Highway 18 to Issaquah-Hobart Road exit, turn left onto 276th Avenue Southeast, which becomes Issaquah-Hobart Road. Take this 4.6 miles, turn left on Southeast May Valley Road. Turn right after 1.5 miles into the park entrance. Rest rooms and free parking are at the trailhead.
Leif Nesheim is hiking columnist and a former reporter for the Sequim Gazette. He is editor at the Montesano Vidette. He can be reached at editor
@thevidette.com.
Why go? It's pretty, it's a good year-round hike, I hadn't been there yet and it doesn't take much longer to drive to than most Hood Canal or West End hikes that I usually think of trekking. Plus, it boasts a stunning view of Mount Rainier (which I, of course, was unable to find ... I know where it is now after consulting a trail guide) and views of Mount Baker (which I also didn't find nor later learned where they might be). I did find the cool fireplace and communication towers - technology rearing its ugly head in the midst of nature.
Squak Mountain State Park was created in 1972 when the Bullitt family donated 590 acres to remain in their natural state. The park has been expanded to 1,570 acres, plus another 1,000 acres or so of county property - all of which link to the Tiger and Cougar mountain natural areas.
My wife and I parked at the developed trailhead on May Valley Road. It's the best place to begin for those who haven't hiked the park before as it has maps at the kiosk. Rather than checking out the one-third-mile Thomas Loop Trail - which has a story for kids on a series of signs along the route in which an animal protagonist learns about nature - we headed straight up the Bullitt Gorge Trail toward the summit.
It rises through second-growth forest, gold-garbed maples blazing with fall foliage interspersed between the firs. Ferns rise between their fallen leaves. Watch your step, the trail is popular with horseback riders.
The creek soon becomes audible as it cascades through a shallow gully on the left. Stick to the main trail, the route is obvious but it isn't clear where all the other trails go - hence the need for the map for Squak Mountain newbies.
There is a junction where the hikers' trail diverges from the wider horse trail. I recall a sign, but didn't make note of it in my notes, so maybe there isn't one. There is, however, a large gate to bar equestrians.
The trail to this point has been a steady but not terribly steep rise. Now, the trail climbs steeply. This is where you might hear "are-we-there-yets" (not that I'm saying I heard any such thing on my hike, but if you were to hear them, this is where they'd appear). I was pleasantly surprised to see some holly along the route. Christmassy.
While looking at the glossy green and pointy leaves of the holly, I noted the golden tones of the maples and alders lining the curved walls of the gully's terminus. It was quite pretty.
The trail eventually levels out and comes to a T-junction. If you want to see the view of Mount Rainier, turn left onto the Perimeter Loop and keep your eyes peeled for a faint path leading downhill to the left 100 yards to a clearing. Mandy and I instead headed to the right on the Valley Connector Trail toward the Bullitt fireplace. Nice forest, no views.
We followed the signs to the fireplace and Central Peak along a broad former logging road that has been overgrown to little more than a wide trail. Several other trails branch off this but we kept to the main route.
The fireplace is the only remnant of the Bullitt family's summer home. It is huge and made of stone. I think you could fit Hansel and Gretel inside. The fireplace is a popular picnic destination; we ate at a picnic table placed on the home's concrete foundation and had just left when the next picnickers arrived for their luncheon. Drizzle dampened the air and even if there had been a view - there isn't - it would have been socked in by the overcast sky.
Continuing east on the Bullitt Fireplace Trail to an intersection, follow the Central Peak Trail uphill to a steel gate. Behind the locked gate is a vast array of towers for microwaves, cell phones and other communication devices. There's a pretty good view of downtown Seattle to the northwest.
The sudden appearance of so much technology in the middle of wilderness is incongruous. I found it fascinating, like a giant spaceship had landed atop the mountain; Mandy thought it was just ugly. There is a gravel access road leading from the tower that makes for the beginning of the return loop.
After a short distance, the first of several trails leads off to the left for more nature-like walks. You can't make the complete loop because the bottom half of the Equestrian Loop Trail (about halfway down the mountain) is closed due to damage. The best you could do is hike down the Phil's Creek Trail to the point it rejoins the road.
We chose the road. Although shorter by maybe half a mile, it is steep. Really, it's steep. Did I mention it's steep? The 2.5-mile road drops some 1,600 feet to the trailhead. That's pretty steep for a road.
We met an equestrian and several other hikers headed uphill. I thought riding a horse on the way down would have been nice. We also noted remnants of partially dismantled green power boxes alongside the road. We thought it would have been nice if they hadn't been there.
They are just some of the leftovers from earlier land users that are found throughout the park. From old coal-mining rail trails to overgrown logging roads and stumps from long-since-felled old-growth trees to the Bullitt fireplace, there's a sense of civilization's proximity. But, somehow, it still
is heartening that the wilderness reclaims its own after such a short time despite being surrounded by urban development.
Squak Mountain - May Valley Trail loop
How long: About 5.2 miles
How hard: Moderate
How to get there:
Go to Tacoma via U.S. Highway 101 and state Highways 104, 3 and 16. Turn north on I-5 to Highway 18, exit 142A toward Auburn. Take Highway 18 to Issaquah-Hobart Road exit, turn left onto 276th Avenue Southeast, which becomes Issaquah-Hobart Road. Take this 4.6 miles, turn left on Southeast May Valley Road. Turn right after 1.5 miles into the park entrance. Rest rooms and free parking are at the trailhead.
Leif Nesheim is hiking columnist and a former reporter for the Sequim Gazette. He is editor at the Montesano Vidette. He can be reached at editor
@thevidette.com.
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