Get It Growing: Saving vegetable seeds

Saving seeds from your vegetable garden for planting next year is fun and satisfying. Saving seed from vegetables with desirable traits such as resistance to pests, cold hardiness or great taste also contributes to biodiversity.

Saving seeds from your vegetable garden for planting next year is fun and satisfying. Saving seed from vegetables with desirable traits such as resistance to pests, cold hardiness or great taste also contributes to biodiversity.

You only should save seed from open-pollinated (OP) or “Heirloom” varieties since the offspring of hybrids, often labeled “F1” or “Hybrid,” do not breed true to their parents.

It is easiest to save seeds from open-pollinated tomatoes, peppers, beans, peas and lettuce because they produce seed the same season as planted and are mostly self-pollinating, minimizing the need to be mindful of possible cross-pollination. Until you gain experience at saving seed, do not save seed from cross-pollinated crops such as those from the squash family.

To save tomato seeds, select a few fully ripe disease-free tomatoes from your favorite plant. Mash the tomatoes and allow the seeds to run into a clean glass container. Pour off the excess liquid leaving about ½ inch of liquid and the pulpy mass of seeds.

Allow the liquid to ferment for up to a week, stirring three times a day to break down the jelly around the seeds.

During this process the healthy, viable tomato seeds will sink and the non-viable ones will float. Remove the floating seeds with a spoon and pour the remaining liquid into a fine sieve. Gently wash the seeds to remove the last of the seed jelly and then spread them onto a paper towel. It is important to remove all of the seed jelly because if left around seeds, it can inhibit germination and lead to seed-borne diseases.

Leave the seeds at room temperature to dry thoroughly. Once dry, store as described below. Seeds from eggplant and mature red peppers can be saved in the same way.

For beans, peas and soybeans, seed can be saved as soon as the pods are dry and rattle. Harvest the pods and open them up. Remove the dry seeds and spread them on a plate for a day or so to be sure that they are completely dry. Put the dried seed in the freezer for 30 hours to kill any weevil larvae and then store as described below.

Lettuce forms a dandelion-like seed head that can be rubbed between the fingers to separate the seed from other plant parts. Allow the seed heads to dry for 2-3 weeks before collecting the seed.

Here are a few additional tips for saving seed:

• Keep seed only from healthy plants and take great care during the drying process to prevent disease problems.

• Dry the seeds indoors in cool, moist weather. Once dried, put the seed in an envelope and store in a tightly sealed jar. Placing a small cloth bag of powdered milk in the jar under the seed will help control moisture.

• Label the jar with the variety and the date saved. Store the jar in a cool (less than 50 degrees) dark place at less than 50 percent humidity. An ideal location is in the refrigerator.

As you gain experience, you can try harder-to-save seeds such as cucumber, pumpkins, carrots, beets, cabbage, onions and squash.

For more

Get gardening information at the Brown Bag Series at the Clallam County Courthouse. These free educational events are held at noon on the second and fourth Thursdays of each month.

On Sept. 22, Master Gardener Bob Cain will talk about cover crops.

Pearl of wisdom

Heirloom or heritage seeds are old varieties of “open-pollinated” seeds that have been saved and passed down from generation to generation. Saving seeds from heirloom varieties will produce plants that resemble the parent plant and are a good focus for seed savers.

Bob Cain is a WSU-certified Clallam County Master Gardener.